It will rain. Ketchikan gets more than 150 inches a year — it is a temperate rainforest, and the rain is the reason it looks the way it does.

The people who have a good day here are the ones who decided in advance that rain wasn't going to be a problem. The people who have a bad day are the ones waiting for it to stop.

You have somewhere between five and nine hours. Here's how to spend them wet.

Dress for it once, in the morning

Waterproof shell with the hood up. Waterproof shoes. Layers underneath. Do this before you leave the ship and then stop thinking about it.

Skip the umbrella — the wind off the channel makes it useless and you'll want your hands.

Locals don't own umbrellas and they don't hurry. Once you're properly dressed the rain stops being weather and turns into atmosphere, which is a much better thing to walk around in.

Creek Street

The picture you've seen of Ketchikan. Wooden buildings on stilts over Ketchikan Creek, connected by boardwalk.

It's genuinely better in the rain — wet planking, low cloud on the hills, water running high under your feet. It's a short walk from the dock and it's mostly covered enough to be pleasant. Shops and a small museum along the way if you want to duck in.

In August, salmon run up this creek in numbers that don't look real. You stand on the boardwalk and watch them fight upstream underneath you. That's a free twenty minutes and it's one of the things people remember.

The totem collections

Ketchikan has the largest gathering of standing totem poles in the world, and this is the town's real cultural weight rather than a gift-shop version of it.

If you only do one and it's pouring, do the Heritage Center.

Indoors, worth your time

Things that are better in the rain

What most people get wrong

They spend the morning hoping it will clear and then rush the afternoon when it doesn't.

Decide on the ship, at breakfast, that you're going out in it. Dress properly, pick two things, walk between them slowly, and stop somewhere warm in the middle. That's a good day in Ketchikan and it's available to you in any weather.

The people who look miserable in the photographs are the ones who came ashore in a cotton hoodie and no hood.

If walking distance is a concern

Creek Street and the Discovery Center are both close to the dock and mostly flat, and Ketchikan is one of the ports where ships tie up at the pier rather than tendering — you walk off, no small boat. Not every Alaska port is like that, and it's a factor worth checking before you book rather than after.

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